Forage

The Bermondsey based exhibition 'Urbandsey' took place on 14th April and as the name suggests it followed an 'urban' theme. As a follow up to my 'Ancestors' collection from the previous exhibition (see here for the images) Open/Closed, I modified a set of men's hats with natural materials that I scavenged from my local area and from this the name 'Forage' was born. The key materials were fox bones, wood pigeon feathers, a dead sparrow, faux fur and foliage. My intention was to give this urban associated headwear a feral edge, these pieces can be seen as both a signifier of the rural reclaiming the urban but also the rural bending to the will of the urban. In either case these hats are neither one or the other and a possible ideology of the balance between human and nature. 

Cervid

Cervid was constructed on a sports cap with final shape, and materials used, being reminiscent of some form of hunting attire. With a cervid being the name of an animal from the deer family, combined with mammal inspired qualities and especially the antlers, it seemed an appropriate name and acts as a representative for fur and mammals in this collection. A transgression from the leather to fur and finally the deer head.

Columba 

This was the first hat I completed out of the four, comprising of wood pigeon feathers and one of two dead sparrows I have. The name derives from the genus of 'typical pigeon' that includes the species that provided the feathers, reconstructed from singular findings to form a bird like entity. Through Cervid we have the covering of the head in fur and leather, with Columba it is feather that takes the centre stage and an to show the more refined look of the pigeon.

Vertebrae 

This bowler hat has been adorned with my most important materials that border on spiritual, a fox spine that I found almost in the state you see it though there were several cleaning processes inbetween of course. The human race has historically used and continues to use bone in body adornment all over the planet, so bringing this tradition into the urban setting is satisfying for me. Also important to this design are the highly symbolic connotations of the fox as an animal with associations as the trickster, fire bringer or creature of the afterlife. As a final point, you will frequently see examples of the fox taking on human qualities or the the creature actually transforming into a man in popular culture. With this my hat is a result of urban meets rural, human meets animal. 

Strobilus 

 The final hat, another sports cap, is based around the true name for pine cone - Strobilus. The Strobilus or Megastrobilus is the female sexual organ of the conifer tree, so in affect I have constructed a mohawk shape of plant genitalia. This ties in with the notion of Mother Nature and the reproduction of plant life to take back the urban should the time of humans pass, with the buds of other trees and bushes beginning to emerge.

 

All Images and Headwear by KLV

Ancestors

My first hat/headdress/mask collection:

Mesozoic

This mask/headband was one of the first ideas of the collection, in fact it sparked off the idea for collections name of 'Ancestors'. Mesozoic is the era that encompasses the Triassic, Jurassic and Cretaceous periods where Dinosaurs existed.

Pounce

This hat was to make the link between the Dinosaur design and those that are bird or feather based. The name inspiration is obvious, even more so when worn as the lizard is very animated.

Majesty

 Inspired by the diverse range of headdresses from the Democratic Republic of the Congo, in particular those of  the Yaka and Pende people as well as the Bwami society of the Lega. The name signifies the importance of head wear as a representation of power.

Ara

Ara is the genera of parrot that the scarlet macaw belongs to, the same species that these feathers belonged to. Using them in head wear is reminiscent of South American styles where the macaws are naturally found.

Trove 

As the name suggests this is intended to be a a treasure pile of kinds but also a nest. Much like the magpie or the bower bird who collect coloured/shiny objects to adorn their nests/bowers.

Wildnernis

The German and Dutch variation of the world 'wilderness'. This piece is a combination of British and European birds and butterflies, combined with the famous Mohawk hairstyle which has been in existence from around 392 B.C. to 201 B.C. with a mummified corpse discovered in Ireland to back this up.

Pelt

The first of two masks, Pelt highlights the habit of animal print being associated with African mammals (except Tigers). There are also links here to the DR Congolese headdresses and their use of animal skin or parts. 

Era

 A collage of fossilised creatures with the name 'Era' being self explanatory.

Skulk

Apart from sounding extremely similar to skull, the most prominent material used, 'Skulk' is also the term for a group of foxes which the skull happens to belong to. I found, cleaned and treated it myself then wore it to the private view of Open Close pop up exhibition I shall blog about shortly. It's the only hat to feature a mammal part.

Slumber

 The second piece that deals directly with dead animal, 'Slumber' of course means sleep which is what some consider death. The way in which the sparrow is preserved allows it to sleep amongst the feathers of others. The sparrow itself was a present from when I left Southampton.

Images and Headwear by KLV

Christophe Coppens

Promotional fashion videos by Christophe Coppens

'The Collector' evokes thoughts of animal, anatomy, myth and the macabre.

'Women of the Fields' (feat. Roisin Murphy). Think adornment, rurality, nature and ritual.

 Various Coppens works

 

Ara - The Parrot

Having bought my ticket for the Hollywood themed party at the Cygnet Hotel, post to follow, I decided to assemble a statement piece for the occasion. Months ago I received bunches of feathers from a friend via Sea View Wildlife Experience (formerly Flamingo Park) and these included about six macaw feathers. I can't be certain but my best guess is that they belonged to a scarlet macaw (amongst the more well known), as depending on lighting all the primary colours can be seen much like in this particular bird. Anyway when it came to constructing a headpiece with these beautiful feathers I began with the standard hairband style using millinery wire much like I've posted previously and the gold stag detail is present thanks to Katie, which I think finished off the piece nicely and also helped me decide the wearing gold or silver jewellery dilemma! The name 'Ara' is also the genus of macaws to which the most famous belong. It is also a constellation, Latin for Altar and specifically that used by Zeus.

I love the effect my camera flash has on the feathers!

 

 

Images by KLV

Millinery

I'm now over a month into my Millinery Internship and I've learnt a huge amount already, not just specific techniques either as now I can actually sew and use an iron (ha!). The more complex processes I am now capable of include blocking materials such as Pinok pok, Sinamay and Buckram which is followed by drying, stiffening (glue like substance applied with a paint brush), ironing and then removing the hat from the block. With the basic form taking shape, I've then learnt to sew in wire to strengthen and a Petersham around the rough edge inside for aesthetic reasons which is accompanied by elastic. I've found it very enjoyable to learn these new skills though at times it can be rather tricky and sometimes painful, the tougher material of Buckram being the culprit for most of the pain!

Of course once the basic hat shape is complete it's time to add to it! I've learnt about a much wider scale of materials than I'd usually consider and how to attach them, such as spray mounting silk and sewing feathers. The use of feathers is my favourite, as you may be aware, so I'll find that knowledge particularly valuable as well as learning what else can look best on certain hats/colours. Headbands are something I've also started making which are relatively simple in comparison, so using these skills I designed and created my own for my flatmate's birthday at the beginning of the month with happy results all round! Also note the buffalo farm..

Here in the last photos is Sharon and I and after picking me up from my millinery we took a trip to Kingston to see 'Starglider', a Roy Brown exhibition about masks, sci-fi and human ritual. It was decided that night that I would write articles for online publication 5th Character of which Sharon is Editor in Chief and you can read my first three here: Starglider, Worlds of Wonder, D is for Donut. 

There will be much more to come considering the millinery and 5th Character but for now I decided to post a photo of how my hair.. I wish it would stay like the bottom photo more often. 

Images by KLV

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Kakapo & Kagu

Here are two more collages made today, coincidentally both flightless birds beginning with K! The Kagu or 'Ghost of the Forest' is the only existing species in its family with no strong links to other bird families, making it a very unique creature indeed. Coming from New Caledonia it is very much at risk from introduced species and deforestation, this has resulted in its endangered status. The Kakapo suffers similar issues as it evolved in New Zealand where natural predators and food abundance eradicated the need for flight, however Europeans brought an array of predators with them causing the world's only flightless parrot to become critically endangered.

Images by KLV